Villa Rosmarino, built in 1907, is an authentic Genoese palazzo with original mosaic flooring. The pool is set in a lovely garden of magnolia, lemon, tangerine and grapefruit trees, with restful scents of lavender and rosemary. It's been given a thoroughly modern makeover by owner Mario, an ex-advertising exec who gave up Milan for this tranquil hideaway; in its stark simplicity, the main decoration is the collection of contemporary art that came with Mario, including a spectacular cache of Italian vases. A wonderfully stylish base from which to explore the coast - beautiful walks, romantic boat rides, sunset aperitivi - and the absorbing city of Genoa, with its labyrinth of streets and moody bars. The area's cuisine is the icing on the cake.

www.villarosmarino.com